This feature, originally aired in 2018, takes you behind the scenes of Little America Miniature Horses, where being small is a big deal! From Hollywood stardom to youth programs, our minis have been capturing hearts for decades.

Watch the video to learn about:

• How our miniature horses found their way to Hollywood and TV stardom.
• Our past Thursday Kids Program, where young horsepeople bond with these incredible animals.
• What makes miniatures the horse for everyone—no matter your age!

While this story is a treasured highlight from our past, Little America continues to thrive today. With 130 miniatures and many babies on the way, we’re proud to carry forward our passion for these wonderful minis.

Share your memories with us or schedule an appointment to find your new mini!

Transcript

Reporter: Being small is a big deal here at Little America Miniature Horses.

Tony: They’re called the horse for everyone because I had a friend who was 97 who had about 45 miniatures, and then my daughter started showing when she was three. So they’re for everybody, whether you’re in your 90s or in your beginning years.

Kayla: They’re a lot of fun, but they’re all different. Yes, some like the camera; others prefer to be left alone.

Reporter: But at Little America Miniature Horse Ranch, there’s bound to be a horse for anyone. Sometimes they even end up on the big screen.

Tony: And he has a sister that’s two years old, and she took up a jet plane to Hollywood where she appears on the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills with another one that went with her. They’re two of our horses that Lisa Vanderpump owns. A young lady from Teen Mom OG, Farrah Abraham, bought his one-year-old sister.

Reporter: Tony Greaves has been raising mini horses for 54 years.

Tony: We have about 175 horses right now, and we usually have anywhere from 30 to 60 babies in a season. They have to be 34 inches or less to be registered with the AMHA [American Miniature Horse Association].

Kayla: They’re just really fun to be around. They all have their own little quirks and different personalities, just like people.

Reporter: Kayla is part of the Thursday Kids Program, something Tony’s daughter started over 10 years ago as a way for younger kids to get to learn more about the minis.

Kayla: I learned how to train your horse and how to establish a bond with your horse and how to get your horse to trust you and for you to trust your horse.

Tony: When we have shows, the kids will come out to work with the horses, getting ready. Some that are home-schooled will come out maybe every day to work with horses.

Reporter: I can see why they enjoy hanging out here at the ranch. And to put it in perspective, here’s me with a mini; here’s me with a Clydesdale! So now we have one of your favorite little minis here.

Tony: Yes, this is Los Arboles Idols Pequeno, but we call him PQ. My daughter actually bought him for me for Father’s Day two years ago. He’s really little and very correct to be as tiny as he is.

Reporter: Well, nice to meet you, PQ! Not for sale, by the way.

Tony: But maybe we’ll have some of his babies that you’d like.

Reporter: So what makes them so unique besides their size? There are open classes for showing.

Tony: Everybody can show in the open classes.

Reporter: And hey, good things do come in small packages.

Tony: Miniatures can take the place of a [full-sized] horse. So whether you’re young or old, a lot of people get into miniatures because maybe they’ve gotten to where they’re afraid they might be hurt by a big horse or maybe they don’t have the room that they used to have. They don’t want to ride.

Reporter: I’ve had a great time out here at Little America Miniature Horses.ther’s Day gift turned fan favorite. (Sorry, PQ’s not for sale, but his adorable offspring might be!)

The post Being little is a big deal at Little America Miniature Horses appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

The basic rule of thumb for both miniature and big horses is eleven months and five days as an average length of pregnancy. This is figured from the last date of breeding. Of course, there are always exceptions to that rule. We have had mares foal full-term, foal at ten months and have had them carry as long as a full year.

How will I know when my mare is ready to foal?

When foaling season is approaching we bring all the mares that are pregnant into a pasture next to the foaling barn. At night we put them in a lot, referred to as the maternity ward, which is observable from our house and by cameras and is lighted during the night so we can look at them to check what is going on at any time.

We check the bag (mammary gland) of each mare when we feed morning and night. When it starts filling we make note of it. Any big change from one observation to the next is the best sign that she is going to foal very quickly. They will surprise sometimes, but it is the best guide. Usually, when there is a big change, the mare goes into the foaling barn where we can observe even closer. Sometimes there will be tiny balls of wax on the tips of the teats. This waxing usually is within 24 hours of foaling.

What equipment should I use to watch for foals?

Once we see a mare’s bag fill up, we bring her into the foaling barn at night and let her graze in the lot outside the barn during the day.

We have used Breeder Alert for many years through a number of upgrades. There are others that are available, and we have tried several but have stuck with them because of excellent customer service. The current system has capability to use a beeper and also a dialing system that will call a list of numbers. It will call according to an assigned sequence. If the first does not answer, it goes on to the next.

When a mare is restless or just acting differently than usual, we will put the beeper on to make sure that we are alerted when she lies down flat. If we are asleep, the beeper will wake us. We will look at the monitor and if she is just laying down, we will go back to sleep. If she is up and down, pawing at the ground or walking in circles, we know that the time is near so we pay close attention.

Currently, we have a camera system by Arlo Security Systems. We have ten cameras and have them distributed throughout the barn and maternity ward. We can see it on TV, Amazon Echo Show and on our phones, even when we are out of town. Some of our friends and family have access to it and have been known to alert us if a mare is in labor. The cameras are rechargeable and portable so sometimes during the day, we will move them outside the barn to cover the yard where the mares are.

What do I do after a foal is born?

After a foal is born, we immediately worm the mare. We generally use paste Ivermectin set for an average-sized AMHA-sized mare, about 200 pounds. We never use Quest because it requires very exact weight dosage. We usually worm before she even stands up if possible. When the foal stands and the umbilical cord breaks, we treat with 2-10% iodine by dipping the foal’s navel in a small dish of the iodine.

When the mare passes the placenta, we put it in two shopping bags to prevent leaks and put it in the freezer to dispose of it on the next trash pickup day. It is suggested that the placenta be inspected to make sure it has all been expelled. We then leave the mare and foal alone and make notations in the office of the time of birth and start the foal’s webpage.

Then we go back to check on the mare and foal and usually by this time the foal is nursing. We make sure foal passes meconium (first poop) and is actually nursing. The meconium is almost black, very thick, and sticky. Sometimes it comes out fairly long. If all this happens as normal, we leave them alone to bond and if it’s night, go back to bed. If we see after several tries that the foal is having trouble, we may give an enema of warm water with a dash of dishwashing soap, or you can use a regular Fleet enema.

Another thing we keep an eye out for the first few days is the eyelashes of the foal. They can frequently turn in and if left untreated, can cause eye infections or even blindness. A vet can put a stitch in the eyelid to keep the eyelashes out, but we usually just brush them up with our fingers. If that doesn’t work, we will carefully cut them off entirely. They generally will be okay as they grow, but check from time to time.

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Supplies For Spiral Reverse Tie-Dying a T-Shirt

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Colored AMHyA World T-Shirt
• Bleach
• Squirt Bottle
• Rubber/Disposable Gloves
• A way to rinse out the shirt
• Three or more rubber bands

Instructions to Reverse Tie-Dye Your Horse Shirt

1. Wet the t-shirt and wring it out.
2. Decide where you want the center of the spiral to be, then pinch that spot and begin twisting the fabric around, creating a tight spiral.
3. Once the spiral is complete, place the rubber bands around the shirt to hold it tight. I used three rubber bands which left me with six sections of the shirt.
4. Put your gloves on and fill the squirt bottle with bleach.
5. Place the shirt in the sink or somewhere that won’t be damaged if the bleach touches it. You can also use a cookie rack or something similar to keep it up off of the surface if you want.
6. Cover every other section in bleach! You’ll see the color start to fade pretty quickly. Don’t about getting too much on the section, you can be pretty generous. Just make sure to do every other section.
7. Once you’re done, flip it over and do the other side too. I made sure to bleach the same sections on both sides. I’m not sure if it makes a difference, but I thought the bleach might bleed all the way through and that would at least keep it in those sections.
8. Let it sit for a while! I let mine sit for only 10 minutes and I wished I’d left it for longer, and had used more bleach. My squeeze bottle was tiny so it ran out pretty fast. Here’s what it looked like after 10 minutes:
9. Once you’re done waiting, carefully remove the rubber bands and rinse out the shirt. You’ll want to be sure to get all the bleach out. Let it dry and voila! Now you have a reverse tie-dye shirt!

Cropping and Rolling the Sleeves

Up for a little more work? You can crop the shirt by cutting off the bottom part, or if you’re up for it, sewing it up then cutting off the excess (I prefer this to cutting then sewing.. a little easier to get it straight). Just make to put the shirt on to measure! I made the mistake of sewing a new hem without measuring and ended up having to take it out and shorten it more.

Once I was done with the hem, I also rolled the sleeves a couple of times and sewed on the top and bottom to keep them rolled permanently.

The post How to Reverse Tie-Dye A Horse Show Shirt appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

There are several different tools used in the driving world to help horses have better action. Some use weighted boots, others chains, bands, or there are “flip flops.” Flip flops for driving horses consist of a strap that’s buckled around the horse’s pasterns with a length of hose hanging off. When the horse moves, the hose dangling makes them pick their legs up higher and helps get them in better shape and stepping bigger.

Supplies Needed to Make Flip Flops For Your Driving Horse

• 2 9″ lengths of hose
• 2 1 1/2″ split key rings
• 4 or more #10 split/lock washers
• 2 nylon dog collars
• 2 or more #10 x 32 – 1″ machine bolts with nuts (these are 1/4″ longer)
• Lighter
• Scissors
• Pliers
• Drill and 3/16″ drill bit
• Optional: Leather punch
• Optional: Duct tape

Steps to Make Flip Flops For Your Single or Country Pleasure Driving Horse

1. Cut the dog collar to be 10″ long, then use the lighter to burn the end so it doesn’t unravel.

2. Use either the drill or a leather punch to punch holes in the newly shortened collar and the lighter to burn them and prevent unraveling.

3. Next, take one of the key rings and install it on the collar’s leash loop. In the past I’ve used solid metal rings for this, but they had to be sawed to install on this piece, so I’m trying key rings this time. We’ll see how it goes! Another option is to have solid rings and put them around the collar itself, I just prefer to keep the metal off of my horse’s legs.

4. Fold the hose in half and use the drill to put holes going straight through both ends of the hose (four holes).

5. When the holes are drilled, slip the ring onto the hose so it hangs in the fold.

6. Place one washer on the bolt. Using your pliers to help squeeze the hose down a little bit, run the bolt through the four holes to hold the flip flops together. Once you get it through all four, place another lock washer on the other side and the nut. Make sure to not squeeze down on the hose too much, you don’t want a lot of excess metal from the bolt sticking out.

7. Optional: For extra durability and to help cover up the metal portions on the hose, wrap the flip flops in duct tape.

The post How to Make Flip Flops for Driving Horses appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

Over the years we’ve had many customers who were either new to the horse world or purchasing their first miniature horse. This guide will walk new owners through caring for their miniature horse(s). As always, if you have any questions, please reach out to us!

Watering Miniature Horses

All livestock should access to clean water all the time. Be sure to have a bucket in their stall or trough in their lot or pasture with water. An animal can live for days without feed but will die quickly without water.

Feeding Grain to Mini Horses

Feed according to the instructions on the feed bag that you choose. It varies across manufacturers, but we feed about 1-2 pounds of whole oats per 100 pounds of the horse’s weight. We split this amount into two feedings:  morning and evening. A full-grown miniature mare around 30″ tall will weigh around 200-250 pounds, so we would feed about three to four pounds of grain per day.

If they have good grass, you can cut back on the grain. If they are losing weight, increase feed gradually. We feed whole oats to our broodmares and if they don’t gain enough weight we supplement with alfalfa cubes. When we feed alfalfa cubes, we soak them in water for about an hour before feeding. Then we’ll usually feed about a hand full of the alfalfa. If a horse develops a pot belly it is usually from lack of nutrition, or too little feed, NOT overfeeding.

For young horses, weanlings and yearlings, there are many excellent feeds for growing animals. I highly recommend Purina Equine Junior.

Letting your Miniature Horses Graze

I suggest free access to coastal Bermuda grass hay when the grass is lacking. That said, they probably will not even eat it when the grass is available because they prefer fresh growing grass.  Because of the drought we are going through, I would introduce them to the grass gradually.  Perhaps letting them graze an hour or two a day for the first few days and gradually increasing the time. 

Once they are used to it, you can leave them on the grass. That said, you may want to limit their time for the grass’s sake so you don’t create a dry lot from overgrazing. 

Protect any trees in their lot as they will sometimes eat the bark out of boredom which can kill the tree. In the past, we have wrapped chicken wire loosely around trees in the lot to protect them.

Salt for Your Mini Horse

Salt should also be available. Salt blocks, available at feed stores or Tractor Supply, come in three types:

• White which is plain salt
• Brown which is a trace mineral block
• Yellow which is sulfur

I recommend and use only the brown blocks which supply some of the minerals that the horses may need. They are available in 50-pound blocks and in smaller individual blocks of about four pounds.

Worming Miniature Horses

We worm our horses every two to three months with a paste wormer that can be purchased at your local feed store. The tube is marked to administer by weight and one tube usually worms a full-sized horse of 1,250 pounds. That same tube will take care of a miniature five times, so set the gauge to 250 pounds.

Ivermectin is the wormer we use most of the time. However, your veterinarian may suggest that you rotate wormers so that they don’t build up a resistance to one type or another. DO NOT use Quest wormer. It is very specific as to weight and has been fatal in some instances if overdosed.  Most other wormers have a wide tolerance and even accidental dosing of an entire tube would not be fatal.

Vaccinations and Hoof Trimming for Mini Horses

Every area has its own needs as far as vaccinations.  I only give an annual booster of FluvacEWT, but in your area, your vet might recommend additional vaccinations.

Hoof trimming should be done usually every two to three months as needed, depending on the individual horse.  Find a farrier in your area through references or feed store. 

Here is a good piece written by a friend of mine, Joanne Ross, which may be of interest too:

General Care and Health of Mini Horses

• Miniature horses consume the same feeds as full-sized horses. These are primarily pasture grass, hay, and grain.
• A single miniature horse can be reasonably maintained on as little as 1/4 acre of land provided that its feed is supplemented with hay on a daily basis and the horse is also provided with a structure for shade or to get in out of the rain or other inclement weather conditions
• Miniature horses, depending on their age, size, and whether they are also on pasture, will consume in the range of two to five pounds of good quality hay per day.
• Generally, hooves of miniatures are trimmed at two-month intervals. This may be necessary more often with younger horses (yearlings and younger) while they are growing to assure proper bone development, leg conformation, and gait.
• Horses are usually wormed on a two-month routine with one of the modern wormers or fed the daily supplement that has a wormer included.
• Veterinarians should be consulted for advice on annual vaccination programs for horses to prevent common diseases. Annual dental care is very important in miniatures.
• In the winter the miniature horse gets a very long coat and it can be very deceiving about how their weight is holding. It is important to actually check the horse’s condition by rubbing the fingers across the ribs of the horse just below the backbone. If a “washboard” feel is evident, the horse is probably underweight and the feed ration should be increased.

The post How to Care for a Miniature Horse appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

Have you ever wondered how people get boots that perfectly match those jewel-toned, bright red, deep gray or whatever color showmanship outfits? They’re probably a custom paint job! I have to thank a friend from the ring, Jillian H. for exchanging multiple texts with me sharing all the details on how to pull this off flawlessly.

Matching Paint to Your Showmanship Outfit

Obviously, you’ll need paint that matches your boots as one of your supplies. There are two ways to achieve this match.. but first, an important note: You SPECIFICALLY must buy water-based (aka latex or acrylic) paint! I’m told oil-based will peel off of your boots.. not a good look! Anyway, back to color matching:

Run a Color Match Against Your Showmanship Fabric

If your local hardware store offers this service, it’s what I would recommend! In my case, I went to Home Depot. So you don’t risk losing stones from the top… take the pants from your outfit into the paint department and let them know you need a water-based satin finish paint sample that matches the fabric. If they offer the service, they’ll be able to scan it and get a closer match than would happen with paint chips. Mine cost only about $4.. not bad!

Compare Your Fabric to Paint Chips

If you don’t have access to hardware stores that have the color matching option, no problem! You can get a pretty close match using paint chips. Head to the paint department of your local hardware store with the pants from your outfit. Take a look at the walls of paint chips (color samples) and pull a few that appear close to your outfit. A tip from my friend: “some store lights lie!” Take the fabric and chips out of the store into the sunlight to get a better grasp on the right match.

Once you’ve found the right one, ask for a water-based satin finish paint sample in that color. Easy peasy!

None of them close enough? Try another store if that’s an option! I first went to Lowes looking at paint chips, then to Home Depot where I discovered the color matching option and did that instead.

Supplies for Painting Cowboy Boots

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Tailored show outfit (matching top+pants)
• Boots to paint
• Painter’s or masking tape
• Water-based primer OR fine sandpaper to prep boots
• Water-based satin finish paint sample matching your outfit
• Cardboard
• Paintbrush or paint sponge
• Smaller paintbrush for details

Instructions to Paint Boots to Match your Horse Show Outfit

1. Tape the areas of the boots where you don’t want paint. I taped around the soles but it wouldn’t hurt to tape where you want to stop before the upper portion too, assuming you’re not going to paint the entire boot.

2. Setup a spot to paint. I used cardboard to keep the paint from getting on the ground or anywhere unwanted.
3. Stir or shake your water-based primer then paint your boots. If you have multiple brushes, use the bigger one to do most of the work then touch up with the small brush. Some of those crevices, in particular, around the seams, are difficult to get.
4. Let the primer dry for an hour or so.
5. Stir or shake your water-based fabric-matching paint and get started using the regular paintbrush!
6. Followup with the smaller paintbrush for the detailed areas to really make sure they’re covered.
7. Once the colored layer has dried completely, cover in a second coat to eliminate any streaks.
8. Let the paint dry then carefully remove the tape. Voila! You’re ready to hit the ring with your horse!

The post How to Paint Cowboy Boots to Match Show Clothes appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

Story Behind the Supplies

I used to apply crystals using bent end tweezers and would dip the crystal in glue then apply it, one by one. It worked. It also was painful.. it took FOREVER! At the American Miniature Horse Association World Championship show earlier this year I saw a vendor working on a shirt using some amazing tools, so that’s the process covered here. I’ve linked to the vendors and tools I purchased in the supplies section. The shirt I’m blinging in the video is a custom made one by Show Off Designs. That said, there are plenty of shirts available off the rack or on eBay that are great for blinging!

The syringe recommendation came from some trial and error. For my first purchase, I bought small squeeze bottles with even smaller gauge blunt tip needle caps. I thought they looked like what I saw the vendor using, but when I got them the opening was too small to get the thick E6000 through, and the needle tip was too fine as well. The syringes I’ve linked below though work well. Whatever you use, I wouldn’t recommend getting a blunt tip needle much smaller (higher number) than 14 gauge for E6000. The smaller the gauge number, the bigger the needle circumference and more glue will come out quickly.

For glue, I always use E6000. It’s what the pros use and does not disappoint! A good tip to keep your glue in working order is to run vaseline around the threads of the opening to the glue bottle the first time you open it. This will keep the sometimes stringy glue from sticking and gluing the lid shut! The glue is VERY strong and has toxic fumes, so be sure to use it only in a well-ventilated area.

For rhinestones, I ordered this time from Dreamtime Creations, but I also sometimes pick up stones at M&J Trimmings. The stones used in the video are Swarovski Xirius Rose 2088 flatbacks (style) SS30 (size) in crystal and light siam (colors). I’ve also used the same style and colors but sized SS20 on this shirt to fill in when there are gaps SS30s are too big to fill. The opposite of needle gauges, with rhinestone sizes, the smaller the number, the smaller the size crystal.

Finally, the jewel pick up tool! The tool I linked below is fabulous because it’s several tools in one. It has the pick-up/clay tipped end for picking up crystals. To get the clay to flow out, just gently twist the tip of the pen to get it flowing, then twist back in the opposite direction to stop the flow. These instructions are written (though VERY easy to miss) on the outside of the pen. Then when you look at the other end, you can pull the bevel edge tip out of the pen to reveal a blunt tip and a little slot in between the two that you could use for a key to press glue out of the tube if you have a small enough bottle of E6000.

Supplies to Add Crystals to Horse Show Clothes

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Shirt to decorate
• E6000 Glue
• Syringes with 14 gauge blunt tip needles
• Flatback Rhinestones
• Silhouette Pick-Me-Up Jewel Tool/Setter
• Paper towel
• Mousepad with rubber grip back (optional)
• Glue respirator (optional)

Instructions to Bling Show Clothes

1. If your stones aren’t already face-up, pour them out on the back of a mousepad. Gently run your hand over the top of them to get them to all flip right side up. This is much faster than doing it individually by hand!
2. Plan out where you want to put what. If you need to, lay some of the crystals out to get an idea of the sizes and look so you know where to apply the glue and how to space it out. Also, think about your breed and event before you begin! For example, I show miniature horses, so I’ll typically wear shirts with a number clip that hangs from my collar. Because of that, I left a gap in the crystals on the collar so the clip has a comfortable spot to go.
3. The E6000 glue is toxic, so make sure you’re either in a well-ventilated area or wearing some sort of filtering protection! Trust me, this stuff is STRONG.
4. Twist or press (depending on the type) your needle onto the syringe and insert some glue into the syringe from the opposite, wide-open end. Start with just a bit! A little can last a long time, and you don’t want to leave the glue sitting in the syringe when you’re ready to stop for the day.
5. Gently press down on the plunger of the syringe to get the glue flowing. Apply small dots of glue where you want to apply crystals, keeping them smaller than the crystal size you’re using since the glue will spread under the flatback. Be sure to leave enough room in between the glue dots so there’s space for the crystals to fully sit on the fabric and glue instead of on each other. E6000 can be very stringy if you’re not careful and it gets on the stones and is hard to remove, so press/drag the needle gently on the fabric before moving to the next dot to cleanly move. When you’re ready to stop, gently pull back on the plunger to bring the glue back into the tube.

   

6. Use the paper towel to wipe off the tip of the needle as necessary–the glue will dry and build up the longer you go.
7. Take the jewel pick up tool and gently touch the top of the crystal you want to pick it up, then touch to the glue. Don’t worry about pushing it too firmly into the glue–just touch enough that the glue pulls the crystal off of the tool. I’ll sometimes twist or roll the tip off of the stone as sometimes coming straight up just pulls it back off of the glue.

   

8. Once you’re done covering up the glue dots, you can use the beveled or pointy end of the setter tool (you can pull that end out to reveal both types of ends) to firmly press the crystals into the glue or adjust it as necessary.

   

9. Repeat until you’re done! Then clean out your syringe. I use up all the glue in the syringe, then use water and a safety pin to clean out the syringe and needle. You can get lots of uses out of a single syringe if you do a good job of cleaning it. I recommend leaving a safety pin through the needle until you’re ready to use it again., then leave the safety pin through the needle until you’re ready to use it again.

There you have it! Now you know how to bling show clothes. Now go get busy!

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Get started! How to clean a mini horse harness:

Supplies Needed

• Pledge
• Brasso brass cleaner
• A soft cloth or two to clean with, preferably microfiber or an old tshirt
• Rubber glove (optional)
• Old toothbrush (optional)

Instructions to Clean a Mini Horse Harness

1. I start with the brass on my harness because the cleaner can get on the leather. Put on your glove and either put some Brasso on the cloth, or on your glove, and rub it in a circular motion on each brass part of your harness. The more tarnished the brass is, the more you’ll need to rub to clean it up.
2. Once you’ve restored the shine, use a clean portion of your rag to wipe off the rest of the product.
3. Repeat for the rest of the brass on your harness. TIP: Unbuckle each piece to work on it, then redo the buckle before you continue so you don’t change the way your harness is fitted for your horse! You can use the opposite side of the harness to remind yourself where to redo the buckle.
4. If your cloth is covered in Brasso, use a different cloth for cleaning with Pledge. Spray the pledge on your cloth (NOT on the harness) and rub it on the leather portions of the harness, taking care to avoid the embroidery.
5. For hard to reach areas of the harness, spray Pledge on the toothbrush and gently use it to clean those areas, then wipe them dry with the cloth.
6. Repeat until you’ve finished cleaning your harness!
7. Head to an AMHA show and get it dirty again!

Find your next miniature horse driving prospect with Little America. We have foals by LR Phantom’s Secret Storm, son of 35-time World Champion Single Pleasure Driving and Roadster horse, Silver Meadow’s Phantom Storm.

We also own 22-time AMHA World Single Pleasure Driving and Roadster winner, Lymrick’s Irresistible Force, “Guinness” and have his progeny for sale. Not only has Guinness won World Reserve Grand Champion Single Pleasure Driving Horse in both open and amateur, but he’s also been World Grand Champion Roadster Horse at AMHA World!

The post How to Clean a Mini Horse Harness appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

2023

2022

2018 

2016
Joe Kahre, IN, President
Al Bulgawicz, TX, Vice President
Laura Mullen, NC, Secretary
Heather Ward, Canada, Treasurer
Harry Elder, CO, Director at Large

2015
Sid Hutchcraft, President (Florida)
Al Bulgawicz, Vice President
Julie Good, Secretary
Frank Lupton, Treasurer
Harry Elder, Director at Large

2014
Harry Elder, President (Colorado)
Sid Hutchcraft, Vice President
Julie Good, Secretary
Frank Lupton, Treasurer
Jim Barenklau, Director at Large

2013
Jim Barenklau, President (South Dakota)
Sid Hutchcraft, Vice President
Darlene Bridges, Secretary
Thomas Thompson, Treasurer
Harry Elder, Director at Large

2012
Harry Elder, President (Colorado)
Sid Hutchcraft, Vice President
Julie Good, Secretary
Frank Lupton, Treasurer
Jim Barenklau, Director at Large

2011
Jim Barenklau, President (South Dakota)
Clair Severson, Vice President
Sid Hutchcraft, Secretary
Frank Lupton, Treasurer
Julie Good, Director at Large

2010
Jim Barenklau, President (South Dakota)
Dave Miller, Vice President
Clair Severson, Secretary
Larry Elniff, Treasurer
Joanne Ross, Director at Large

2009
Jim Barenklau, President (South Dakota)
Dave Miller, Vice President
Laura Mullen, Secretary
Larry Elniff, Treasurer
Mike Want, Director at Large

2008
Mike Want, President (California)
Tom O’Connell, Vice President
Clair Severson, Secretary
Kathy Krem Porter, Treasurer
Frank Lupton, Director at Large

2007
Mike Want (California), President
Robert “Bob” Kane (California), Vice President
Sheryl Peterson (Washington), Secretary
Tom Roberts (Kentucky), Treasurer
Sheryl Peterson (Washington), Secretary

2006
Felix Covington (Texas), President (resigned date?)
Mike Want (California), President elected date? to replace Covington
Mark Wilson (Texas), Vice President (resigned date?)
Robert “Bob” Kane (California), Vice President to replace Wilson
Sheryl Peterson (Washington), Secretary
Tom O’Connell (Connecticut), Treasurer
Bob Kane (California), Director at Large

2005
Robert “Bob” Kane (California), President
Tom Roberts (Kentucky), Vice President
Sheryl Peterson (Washington), Secretary
Tom O’Connell (Connecticut), Treasurer
Toni Reece (Delaware), Director at Large

2004
Robert “Bob” Kane (California), President
Tom Roberts (Kentucky), Vice President
Sheryl Peterson (Washington), Secretary
Tom O’Connell (Connecticut), Treasurer
Ronnie Clifton (North Carolina), Director at Large

2003
Ronnie Clifton (North Carolina), President
Tony W. Greaves (Texas), Vice President
Robin Miller (California), Secretary
Tom Roberts (Kentucky), Treasurer
Fred LeNeve (Ontario), Director at Large

2002
Tony W. Greaves (Texas) – President
Jerry Gum (Kansas) – Vice-President
Robin Miller (California) – Secretary
Fred LeNeve (Ontario) – Treasurer
Ronnie Clifton (North Carolina) – Director at Large

2001 (Annual Meeting date changed to February/March)
Tony W. Greaves (Texas) – President
Jerry Gum (Kansas) – Vice-President
Marilyn Gilchrist (Florida) – Secretary
Fred LeNeve (Ontario) – Treasurer
Wade Burns (North Carolina) – Director at Large

1999
Tony W. Greaves (Texas) – President
Jerry Gum (Kansas) – Vice-President
Marilyn Gilchrist (Florida) – Secretary
Fred LeNeve (Ontario) – Treasurer
Wade Burns (North Carolina) – Director at Large

1998
Mark Partin (Mississippi) – President (resigned January 6, 1999)
Mike Culy (California) – Vice-President (President from February 1999)
Richard Sievert – Vice President (from January 23, 1999)
Marilyn Gilchrist (Florida) – Secretary
Tom Roberts (Kentucky) – Treasurer
Wade Burns (North Carolina) – Director at Large

1997
Bud King (Indiana), President
Ed Birchler (Kentucky), Vice-President
Nancy Rivenburgh (Oregon), Secretary
Ray Ross (Ohio), Treasurer
Richard Sievert (Minnesota), Director at Large

1996
Tom Hartin (Texas), President (Resigned February, 1997)  Bud King succeeded him.
Bud King (Indiana), Vice-President  David McBride (Oklahoma, February, 1997)
Sandy Tremont (Texas), Secretary
Ray Ross (Ohio), Treasurer
Mike Want (California), Director at Large

1995
Tom Hartin (Texas), President
Mike Want (California), Vice-President
Sandy Tremont (Texas), Secretary
Bud King (Indiana), Treasurer
Jack Burchill (New Jersey), Director at Large

1994

Jim Wright (Kentucky), President
Tony Greaves (Texas), Vice-President
Michael Want (California), Secretary
Bud King (Indiana), Treasurer

1993
Jim Wright (Kentucky), President
Tom Hartin (Texas), Vice-President
Tony Greaves (Texas), Secretary
Bud King (Indiana), Treasurer

1992
Mellis See (California), President
David McBride (Oklahoma), Vice President
Linda Anderson (Texas), Secretary
Phil Marks (Texas), Treasurer
David McBride (Oklahoma), President for a few hours after the resignation of Mellis See, but was not elected later in the day.

1991
Robert King (Indiana), President
Mellis See (California), Vice President
Joanne Ross (Oregon), Secretary
Ray Ross (Ohio), Treasurer

1990
Ray Ross (Ohio), President
Bob King (Indiana), Vice President
Ethel Diercks (Iowa), Secretary
Rick LeNeve (Ontario), Treasurer
Roy Brewer (Texas), Director at Large

1989
Ray Ross (Ohio), President
Bob King (Indiana), Vice President
Ethel Diercks (Iowa), Secretary
Rick LeNeve (Ontario), Treasurer
Roy Brewer (Texas), Director at Large

1988
Bob King (Indiana), President
Roy Brewer (Texas), Vice President
Cheryl Belcher (Florida), Secretary
Ray Ross (Ohio), Treasurer
Arnold Landry (Louisana), Director at Large

1987
Bob King (Indiana), President
Roy Brewer (Texas), Vice President
Sami Scheuring (California), Secretary
Ray Ross (Ohio), Treasurer
Don Matthews (Florida), Director at Large

1986
Bob King (Indiana), President
Gary Black (California), Vice President
Sami Scheuring (California), Secretary
B. A. Pearl (Texas), Treasurer

1985
Ed Eberth (Indiana), President
Lee Martin (Oklahoma), Vice President
Sami Scheuring (California), Secretary
Bob King (Indiana), Treasurer

1984
Lee Martin (Oklahoma), President
Ed Eberth (Indiana), Vice President
Jim Summers (Texas), Secretary
Len Huff (Illinois), Treasurer

1983
Jack Gerhart (Texas), President
Ed Eberth (Indiana), First Vice President
Lee Martin (Oklahoma), Second Vice President
Sami Scheuring (California), Secretary
Mark Verhaeghe (North Carolina), Treasurer

1982
Jack Gerhart (Texas), President
Jim Summers (Texas), First Vice President
N. A. Williams (Oklahoma), Second Vice President
Mark Verhaeghe (North Carolina), Secretary
B. V. Thompson (Texas), Treasurer

1981
Don Matthews (Florida), President
Fredericka Wagner (Ohio), First Vice-President
Jack Gerhart (Texas), Second Vice-President
Mark Verhaeghe (North Carolina), Secretary
Leon Blair (Texas), Treasurer

1980
Don Matthews (Florida), President
Dixie Blasingame (California), First Vice-President
Michelle Jones (Texas), Second Vice-President
B. V. Thompson, Jr. (Texas), Secretary
Leon Blair (Texas), Treasurer

1979
Charles Palmer (Texas), President
Dixie Blasingame (California), First Vice-President
Don Matthews (Florida), Second Vice-President
B. V. Thompson, Jr. (Texas), Secretary
Leon Blair (Texas), Treasurer

1978
Charles Palmer (Texas), President
Dixie Blasingame (California), First Vice-President
Don Matthews (Florida), Second Vice-President
B. V. Thompson, Jr. (Texas), Secretary
Leon Blair (Texas), Treasurer

The post AMHA Executive Committee Members ’78-’26 appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.

“Jumps for Hunters and Jumpers will be made of 1-1 1/2″ schedule 40 PVC piping or other suitable light-weight material with jump cups, not to include pegs, nails, bolts, etc.  All jumps must be a minimum of five (5) feet wide… Jumps thirty-two inches (32) or more in height must have a second rail added.  All post and rail jumps must have a ground pole.  Uprights are to be a maximum of forty-eight (48) inches in height. …Any decorations or jump wings must not protrude more than twenty-four (24) inches from the uprights.”

Supplies

• ??— 10′ length of Schedule 40, 1.5″ diameter PVC pipe (Use the underlined totals in the directions to calculate how many 10′ lengths you will need according to how many jumps you want to make, and which height of uprights you want–hunter and/or jumper.)

  

• 2-4 — 1.5″ PVC caps (2 for hunter uprights, 2 for jumper uprights)
• 2– 1.5″ PVC T connectors
• 2-6– 2″ PVC T connectors (For jump cups. 2 for hunter uprights, 4 for jumper uprights because jumps over 32″ in height must have a second pole added to keep horses from running under.. trust me, I had it happen at a show once when the rule wasn’t followed!  I like to have a cup/D-ring on both sets of uprights so I don’t have to change them out when I switch from hunter to jumper)
• 4– 1.5″ PVC Elbow connectors
• 2-6– D-rings (To hold jump cups. 2 for hunter uprights, 4 for jumper uprights. I like to have a cup/D-ring on both sets of uprights so I don’t have to change them out when I switch from hunter to jumper)
• 12– 1″ Sheet metal screws
• Saw
• Drill and bits
• Screwdriver

Directions to Build Mini Horse Jumps

1. Cut the 1.5″ diameter PVC into the following lengths:

• Long side of base and jump pole length: 5′ (x3 for hunter, x4 for jumper) = (15′ of PVC used for only hunter, 20′ if doing jumper for an extra jump pole)
• Short side of base length: 10″ (x4) = 40″= (3.33′ of PVC used)
• Jumper uprights: 4′ (x2) = (8′ of PVC used)
• Hunter uprights: 3′ (x2) = (6′ of PVC used)

2.  Now it’s time to assemble the base!  Attach one 10″ piece to each of the two opposite ends of the T (x2) to form the sides of the base.
3.  Attach the elbows to the open ends of the 10″ pieces that are attached to the T (x4), with the open end of the T facing straight up so the uprights can go in later.
4.  Use two of the 5′ lengths to attach the two ends of the base and complete the rectangular base.
5.  Place the uprights in the T on the jump.  Put a cap on the top of each jumper or hunter upright pole.
7.  Use your measuring tape to mark where you will drill holes on the uprights:

• Hunter: By AMHA rules, hunter jumps have a minimum jump pole height of 18 inches and maximum of 28 inches, so I recommend starting with a hole at 18 inches, and ending at 28.
• Jumper: By AMHA rules, jumper jumps have a maximum jump pole height of 44  inches, so you don’t need holes past 44 inches from the ground.

8.  Time to drill holes for the uprights!  Grab a bit that’s bigger than the peg of the D-ring you’ll be using.  It’s hard to get the holes aligned perfectly through the upright and through the cup later, so you’ll want some wiggle room.  Get them as straight through both sides of the pvc as you can.
9.  Now onto the jump cups.  Take your oversized Ts and cut out a little more than half of the  section that branches out (see below).  You want it to be a little over half gone so it makes it easier for the jump pole to fall down.  That way your jump doesn’t get broken when a horse hits it!  Then drill a hole through both sides for the D-ring to go through.

10.  To keep the base together, I recommend that you use sheet metal screws.  You DON’T want to use PVC glue, because if any piece gets broken, you’ll have to cut it off and splice it together.  With the screws, everything stays together but if something gets broken, you can take it off without cutting.  We use screws at every connection point on the base except where the uprights go in.

11.  The final step is to put the jump cups on the up uprights, pins in, and adjust the length of your jump poles.  For measuring everything out, it’s easiest to use 5′ for jump poles, but for them to fall out of the jump easily, they need a few more inches taken off.  Just put the poles in the cups and see how much you want taken off, it should be at least two inches.

12.  Congratulations!  You’re now finished and can enjoy your jumps!  To learn how to make striped jump poles, visit our other blog post, How to: Paint Obstacle/Jump Poles.

The post How to Build Mini Horse Jumps appeared first on Little America Miniature Horses.