Supplies For Spiral Reverse Tie-Dying a T-Shirt

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Colored AMHyA World T-Shirt
• Bleach
• Squirt Bottle
• Rubber/Disposable Gloves
• A way to rinse out the shirt
• Three or more rubber bands

Instructions to Reverse Tie-Dye Your Horse Shirt

1. Wet the t-shirt and wring it out.
2. Decide where you want the center of the spiral to be, then pinch that spot and begin twisting the fabric around, creating a tight spiral.
3. Once the spiral is complete, place the rubber bands around the shirt to hold it tight. I used three rubber bands which left me with six sections of the shirt.
4. Put your gloves on and fill the squirt bottle with bleach.
5. Place the shirt in the sink or somewhere that won’t be damaged if the bleach touches it. You can also use a cookie rack or something similar to keep it up off of the surface if you want.
6. Cover every other section in bleach! You’ll see the color start to fade pretty quickly. Don’t about getting too much on the section, you can be pretty generous. Just make sure to do every other section.
7. Once you’re done, flip it over and do the other side too. I made sure to bleach the same sections on both sides. I’m not sure if it makes a difference, but I thought the bleach might bleed all the way through and that would at least keep it in those sections.
8. Let it sit for a while! I let mine sit for only 10 minutes and I wished I’d left it for longer, and had used more bleach. My squeeze bottle was tiny so it ran out pretty fast. Here’s what it looked like after 10 minutes:
9. Once you’re done waiting, carefully remove the rubber bands and rinse out the shirt. You’ll want to be sure to get all the bleach out. Let it dry and voila! Now you have a reverse tie-dye shirt!

Cropping and Rolling the Sleeves

Up for a little more work? You can crop the shirt by cutting off the bottom part, or if you’re up for it, sewing it up then cutting off the excess (I prefer this to cutting then sewing.. a little easier to get it straight). Just make to put the shirt on to measure! I made the mistake of sewing a new hem without measuring and ended up having to take it out and shorten it more.

Once I was done with the hem, I also rolled the sleeves a couple of times and sewed on the top and bottom to keep them rolled permanently.

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There are several different tools used in the driving world to help horses have better action. Some use weighted boots, others chains, bands, or there are “flip flops.” Flip flops for driving horses consist of a strap that’s buckled around the horse’s pasterns with a length of hose hanging off. When the horse moves, the hose dangling makes them pick their legs up higher and helps get them in better shape and stepping bigger.

Supplies Needed to Make Flip Flops For Your Driving Horse

• 2 9″ lengths of hose
• 2 1 1/2″ split key rings
• 4 or more #10 split/lock washers
• 2 nylon dog collars
• 2 or more #10 x 32 – 1″ machine bolts with nuts (these are 1/4″ longer)
• Lighter
• Scissors
• Pliers
• Drill and 3/16″ drill bit
• Optional: Leather punch
• Optional: Duct tape

Steps to Make Flip Flops For Your Single or Country Pleasure Driving Horse

1. Cut the dog collar to be 10″ long, then use the lighter to burn the end so it doesn’t unravel.

2. Use either the drill or a leather punch to punch holes in the newly shortened collar and the lighter to burn them and prevent unraveling.

3. Next, take one of the key rings and install it on the collar’s leash loop. In the past I’ve used solid metal rings for this, but they had to be sawed to install on this piece, so I’m trying key rings this time. We’ll see how it goes! Another option is to have solid rings and put them around the collar itself, I just prefer to keep the metal off of my horse’s legs.

4. Fold the hose in half and use the drill to put holes going straight through both ends of the hose (four holes).

5. When the holes are drilled, slip the ring onto the hose so it hangs in the fold.

6. Place one washer on the bolt. Using your pliers to help squeeze the hose down a little bit, run the bolt through the four holes to hold the flip flops together. Once you get it through all four, place another lock washer on the other side and the nut. Make sure to not squeeze down on the hose too much, you don’t want a lot of excess metal from the bolt sticking out.

7. Optional: For extra durability and to help cover up the metal portions on the hose, wrap the flip flops in duct tape.

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Have you ever wondered how people get boots that perfectly match those jewel-toned, bright red, deep gray or whatever color showmanship outfits? They’re probably a custom paint job! I have to thank a friend from the ring, Jillian H. for exchanging multiple texts with me sharing all the details on how to pull this off flawlessly.

Matching Paint to Your Showmanship Outfit

Obviously, you’ll need paint that matches your boots as one of your supplies. There are two ways to achieve this match.. but first, an important note: You SPECIFICALLY must buy water-based (aka latex or acrylic) paint! I’m told oil-based will peel off of your boots.. not a good look! Anyway, back to color matching:

Run a Color Match Against Your Showmanship Fabric

If your local hardware store offers this service, it’s what I would recommend! In my case, I went to Home Depot. So you don’t risk losing stones from the top… take the pants from your outfit into the paint department and let them know you need a water-based satin finish paint sample that matches the fabric. If they offer the service, they’ll be able to scan it and get a closer match than would happen with paint chips. Mine cost only about $4.. not bad!

Compare Your Fabric to Paint Chips

If you don’t have access to hardware stores that have the color matching option, no problem! You can get a pretty close match using paint chips. Head to the paint department of your local hardware store with the pants from your outfit. Take a look at the walls of paint chips (color samples) and pull a few that appear close to your outfit. A tip from my friend: “some store lights lie!” Take the fabric and chips out of the store into the sunlight to get a better grasp on the right match.

Once you’ve found the right one, ask for a water-based satin finish paint sample in that color. Easy peasy!

None of them close enough? Try another store if that’s an option! I first went to Lowes looking at paint chips, then to Home Depot where I discovered the color matching option and did that instead.

Supplies for Painting Cowboy Boots

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Tailored show outfit (matching top+pants)
• Boots to paint
• Painter’s or masking tape
• Water-based primer OR fine sandpaper to prep boots
• Water-based satin finish paint sample matching your outfit
• Cardboard
• Paintbrush or paint sponge
• Smaller paintbrush for details

Instructions to Paint Boots to Match your Horse Show Outfit

1. Tape the areas of the boots where you don’t want paint. I taped around the soles but it wouldn’t hurt to tape where you want to stop before the upper portion too, assuming you’re not going to paint the entire boot.

2. Setup a spot to paint. I used cardboard to keep the paint from getting on the ground or anywhere unwanted.
3. Stir or shake your water-based primer then paint your boots. If you have multiple brushes, use the bigger one to do most of the work then touch up with the small brush. Some of those crevices, in particular, around the seams, are difficult to get.
4. Let the primer dry for an hour or so.
5. Stir or shake your water-based fabric-matching paint and get started using the regular paintbrush!
6. Followup with the smaller paintbrush for the detailed areas to really make sure they’re covered.
7. Once the colored layer has dried completely, cover in a second coat to eliminate any streaks.
8. Let the paint dry then carefully remove the tape. Voila! You’re ready to hit the ring with your horse!

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Story Behind the Supplies

I used to apply crystals using bent end tweezers and would dip the crystal in glue then apply it, one by one. It worked. It also was painful.. it took FOREVER! At the American Miniature Horse Association World Championship show earlier this year I saw a vendor working on a shirt using some amazing tools, so that’s the process covered here. I’ve linked to the vendors and tools I purchased in the supplies section. The shirt I’m blinging in the video is a custom made one by Show Off Designs. That said, there are plenty of shirts available off the rack or on eBay that are great for blinging!

The syringe recommendation came from some trial and error. For my first purchase, I bought small squeeze bottles with even smaller gauge blunt tip needle caps. I thought they looked like what I saw the vendor using, but when I got them the opening was too small to get the thick E6000 through, and the needle tip was too fine as well. The syringes I’ve linked below though work well. Whatever you use, I wouldn’t recommend getting a blunt tip needle much smaller (higher number) than 14 gauge for E6000. The smaller the gauge number, the bigger the needle circumference and more glue will come out quickly.

For glue, I always use E6000. It’s what the pros use and does not disappoint! A good tip to keep your glue in working order is to run vaseline around the threads of the opening to the glue bottle the first time you open it. This will keep the sometimes stringy glue from sticking and gluing the lid shut! The glue is VERY strong and has toxic fumes, so be sure to use it only in a well-ventilated area.

For rhinestones, I ordered this time from Dreamtime Creations, but I also sometimes pick up stones at M&J Trimmings. The stones used in the video are Swarovski Xirius Rose 2088 flatbacks (style) SS30 (size) in crystal and light siam (colors). I’ve also used the same style and colors but sized SS20 on this shirt to fill in when there are gaps SS30s are too big to fill. The opposite of needle gauges, with rhinestone sizes, the smaller the number, the smaller the size crystal.

Finally, the jewel pick up tool! The tool I linked below is fabulous because it’s several tools in one. It has the pick-up/clay tipped end for picking up crystals. To get the clay to flow out, just gently twist the tip of the pen to get it flowing, then twist back in the opposite direction to stop the flow. These instructions are written (though VERY easy to miss) on the outside of the pen. Then when you look at the other end, you can pull the bevel edge tip out of the pen to reveal a blunt tip and a little slot in between the two that you could use for a key to press glue out of the tube if you have a small enough bottle of E6000.

Supplies to Add Crystals to Horse Show Clothes

Note: We’ll receive commissions for purchases made through the Amazon links in this supplies list.

• Shirt to decorate
• E6000 Glue
• Syringes with 14 gauge blunt tip needles
• Flatback Rhinestones
• Silhouette Pick-Me-Up Jewel Tool/Setter
• Paper towel
• Mousepad with rubber grip back (optional)
• Glue respirator (optional)

Instructions to Bling Show Clothes

1. If your stones aren’t already face-up, pour them out on the back of a mousepad. Gently run your hand over the top of them to get them to all flip right side up. This is much faster than doing it individually by hand!
2. Plan out where you want to put what. If you need to, lay some of the crystals out to get an idea of the sizes and look so you know where to apply the glue and how to space it out. Also, think about your breed and event before you begin! For example, I show miniature horses, so I’ll typically wear shirts with a number clip that hangs from my collar. Because of that, I left a gap in the crystals on the collar so the clip has a comfortable spot to go.
3. The E6000 glue is toxic, so make sure you’re either in a well-ventilated area or wearing some sort of filtering protection! Trust me, this stuff is STRONG.
4. Twist or press (depending on the type) your needle onto the syringe and insert some glue into the syringe from the opposite, wide-open end. Start with just a bit! A little can last a long time, and you don’t want to leave the glue sitting in the syringe when you’re ready to stop for the day.
5. Gently press down on the plunger of the syringe to get the glue flowing. Apply small dots of glue where you want to apply crystals, keeping them smaller than the crystal size you’re using since the glue will spread under the flatback. Be sure to leave enough room in between the glue dots so there’s space for the crystals to fully sit on the fabric and glue instead of on each other. E6000 can be very stringy if you’re not careful and it gets on the stones and is hard to remove, so press/drag the needle gently on the fabric before moving to the next dot to cleanly move. When you’re ready to stop, gently pull back on the plunger to bring the glue back into the tube.

   

6. Use the paper towel to wipe off the tip of the needle as necessary–the glue will dry and build up the longer you go.
7. Take the jewel pick up tool and gently touch the top of the crystal you want to pick it up, then touch to the glue. Don’t worry about pushing it too firmly into the glue–just touch enough that the glue pulls the crystal off of the tool. I’ll sometimes twist or roll the tip off of the stone as sometimes coming straight up just pulls it back off of the glue.

   

8. Once you’re done covering up the glue dots, you can use the beveled or pointy end of the setter tool (you can pull that end out to reveal both types of ends) to firmly press the crystals into the glue or adjust it as necessary.

   

9. Repeat until you’re done! Then clean out your syringe. I use up all the glue in the syringe, then use water and a safety pin to clean out the syringe and needle. You can get lots of uses out of a single syringe if you do a good job of cleaning it. I recommend leaving a safety pin through the needle until you’re ready to use it again., then leave the safety pin through the needle until you’re ready to use it again.

There you have it! Now you know how to bling show clothes. Now go get busy!

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Get started! How to clean a mini horse harness:

Supplies Needed

• Pledge
• Brasso brass cleaner
• A soft cloth or two to clean with, preferably microfiber or an old tshirt
• Rubber glove (optional)
• Old toothbrush (optional)

Instructions to Clean a Mini Horse Harness

1. I start with the brass on my harness because the cleaner can get on the leather. Put on your glove and either put some Brasso on the cloth, or on your glove, and rub it in a circular motion on each brass part of your harness. The more tarnished the brass is, the more you’ll need to rub to clean it up.
2. Once you’ve restored the shine, use a clean portion of your rag to wipe off the rest of the product.
3. Repeat for the rest of the brass on your harness. TIP: Unbuckle each piece to work on it, then redo the buckle before you continue so you don’t change the way your harness is fitted for your horse! You can use the opposite side of the harness to remind yourself where to redo the buckle.
4. If your cloth is covered in Brasso, use a different cloth for cleaning with Pledge. Spray the pledge on your cloth (NOT on the harness) and rub it on the leather portions of the harness, taking care to avoid the embroidery.
5. For hard to reach areas of the harness, spray Pledge on the toothbrush and gently use it to clean those areas, then wipe them dry with the cloth.
6. Repeat until you’ve finished cleaning your harness!
7. Head to an AMHA show and get it dirty again!

Find your next miniature horse driving prospect with Little America. We have foals by LR Phantom’s Secret Storm, son of 35-time World Champion Single Pleasure Driving and Roadster horse, Silver Meadow’s Phantom Storm.

We also own 22-time AMHA World Single Pleasure Driving and Roadster winner, Lymrick’s Irresistible Force, “Guinness” and have his progeny for sale. Not only has Guinness won World Reserve Grand Champion Single Pleasure Driving Horse in both open and amateur, but he’s also been World Grand Champion Roadster Horse at AMHA World!

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I thought it might be fun to offer an aerial tour as well.

The picture above shows most of the ranch; it’s just missing one corner, the pasture where we keep the stallions in the winter.  This is the only photo that shows the back pasture where we keep many of the horses in the winter.

You can see evidence of the drought we’ve had in this picture, it’s been a very dry year!

We have three major barns that we use for the horses.  The one at the top of the photo above is our main barn.  The show string, our geldings, yearling and two-year-old colts and fillies live here.  The barn farthest to the right in the picture is our hay barn as well as a shelter for horses in that pen/pasture.  And finally, everyone’s favorite, the foaling barn is at the bottom of the photo.  The foaling barn has six stalls with closed-circuit cameras that run to the house where we can watch for mares to go into labor.  The mares who seem to be farther from foaling spend the night in the lot to the left of the barn so they can be checked on during the night.

The view above really points out the terracing of the land, which helps prevent erosion in those pastures.  That land is split into several pastures by electric fences.  During breeding season, we put one stallion and a specific group of mares in each of these pastures.

A big thanks to my friend Matt for flying me around the ranch and putting up with all of my cameras!

Here are some video clips from the flight:

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“Jumps for Hunters and Jumpers will be made of 1-1 1/2″ schedule 40 PVC piping or other suitable light-weight material with jump cups, not to include pegs, nails, bolts, etc.  All jumps must be a minimum of five (5) feet wide… Jumps thirty-two inches (32) or more in height must have a second rail added.  All post and rail jumps must have a ground pole.  Uprights are to be a maximum of forty-eight (48) inches in height. …Any decorations or jump wings must not protrude more than twenty-four (24) inches from the uprights.”

Supplies

• ??— 10′ length of Schedule 40, 1.5″ diameter PVC pipe (Use the underlined totals in the directions to calculate how many 10′ lengths you will need according to how many jumps you want to make, and which height of uprights you want–hunter and/or jumper.)

  

• 2-4 — 1.5″ PVC caps (2 for hunter uprights, 2 for jumper uprights)
• 2– 1.5″ PVC T connectors
• 2-6– 2″ PVC T connectors (For jump cups. 2 for hunter uprights, 4 for jumper uprights because jumps over 32″ in height must have a second pole added to keep horses from running under.. trust me, I had it happen at a show once when the rule wasn’t followed!  I like to have a cup/D-ring on both sets of uprights so I don’t have to change them out when I switch from hunter to jumper)
• 4– 1.5″ PVC Elbow connectors
• 2-6– D-rings (To hold jump cups. 2 for hunter uprights, 4 for jumper uprights. I like to have a cup/D-ring on both sets of uprights so I don’t have to change them out when I switch from hunter to jumper)
• 12– 1″ Sheet metal screws
• Saw
• Drill and bits
• Screwdriver

Directions to Build Mini Horse Jumps

1. Cut the 1.5″ diameter PVC into the following lengths:

• Long side of base and jump pole length: 5′ (x3 for hunter, x4 for jumper) = (15′ of PVC used for only hunter, 20′ if doing jumper for an extra jump pole)
• Short side of base length: 10″ (x4) = 40″= (3.33′ of PVC used)
• Jumper uprights: 4′ (x2) = (8′ of PVC used)
• Hunter uprights: 3′ (x2) = (6′ of PVC used)

2.  Now it’s time to assemble the base!  Attach one 10″ piece to each of the two opposite ends of the T (x2) to form the sides of the base.
3.  Attach the elbows to the open ends of the 10″ pieces that are attached to the T (x4), with the open end of the T facing straight up so the uprights can go in later.
4.  Use two of the 5′ lengths to attach the two ends of the base and complete the rectangular base.
5.  Place the uprights in the T on the jump.  Put a cap on the top of each jumper or hunter upright pole.
7.  Use your measuring tape to mark where you will drill holes on the uprights:

• Hunter: By AMHA rules, hunter jumps have a minimum jump pole height of 18 inches and maximum of 28 inches, so I recommend starting with a hole at 18 inches, and ending at 28.
• Jumper: By AMHA rules, jumper jumps have a maximum jump pole height of 44  inches, so you don’t need holes past 44 inches from the ground.

8.  Time to drill holes for the uprights!  Grab a bit that’s bigger than the peg of the D-ring you’ll be using.  It’s hard to get the holes aligned perfectly through the upright and through the cup later, so you’ll want some wiggle room.  Get them as straight through both sides of the pvc as you can.
9.  Now onto the jump cups.  Take your oversized Ts and cut out a little more than half of the  section that branches out (see below).  You want it to be a little over half gone so it makes it easier for the jump pole to fall down.  That way your jump doesn’t get broken when a horse hits it!  Then drill a hole through both sides for the D-ring to go through.

10.  To keep the base together, I recommend that you use sheet metal screws.  You DON’T want to use PVC glue, because if any piece gets broken, you’ll have to cut it off and splice it together.  With the screws, everything stays together but if something gets broken, you can take it off without cutting.  We use screws at every connection point on the base except where the uprights go in.

11.  The final step is to put the jump cups on the up uprights, pins in, and adjust the length of your jump poles.  For measuring everything out, it’s easiest to use 5′ for jump poles, but for them to fall out of the jump easily, they need a few more inches taken off.  Just put the poles in the cups and see how much you want taken off, it should be at least two inches.

12.  Congratulations!  You’re now finished and can enjoy your jumps!  To learn how to make striped jump poles, visit our other blog post, How to: Paint Obstacle/Jump Poles.

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project and decided I’d use it to enhance our obstacle/jump course, and figure out how to paint horse obstacle/jump poles.  Since then, I was given three more cans of paint (one that’s fluorescent yellow!), so I’m now working on some more jump poles and figured I’d share the main way I go about painting them, as well as a few other options for having decorated obstacle poles. These make a great addition to your practice course at home; I know the miniature horses on our show string have benefited from using them!

Supplies

• • • PVC pipe of the diameter and length you want
    • Spray paint suitable for plastic surfaces (one or more colors)
    • 1″ masking tape
    • Several feet of string (length of the pole or could use a measuring tape instead)
    • A pencil
    • Two plastic bags (I use bread bags)
    • A sandwich bag or regular plastic bag (to protect your hand while spraying)
    • Two clothespins
    • A couple of paper towels or an old sponge
    • Scissors

Instructions to Paint Horse Obstacle/Jump Poles

1. Read the directions on your spray paint can to make sure it’s an appropriate day for painting!

   

2. Wet a paper towel or  and clean any dirt off of the PVC pipe that is to be painted.

   

3. ***For if you want to have a base color instead of white.  If not, move on to question number four*** shake up the paint and then put the sandwich bag on your hand to keep the paint off and spray away!  I hold one end of the pole up while I spray.

   

4. Get a piece of string and cut it to be the same length as the pole.  Decide on a width/spacing for your stripes, then use the string to measure even spaces/stripes by folding in half and marking it with a permanent marker or tying knots in the string at appropriate spots.  You could also use a measuring tape instead and skip this step, I just find the string to be foolproof, I have a tendency to mess up numbers!

   

5. Use a pencil to mark the appropriate spots along your rope or measuring tape.

   

6. Run masking tape around the pipe along the outer-most side of each stripe’s pencil marks (My pictures end here because I realized that previous poles that I had painted with this paint were fading because the paint was NOT for plastic!  Make sure you use paint that is for plastic.)
7. Make a hole smaller than the pole’s diameter in each of the bread bags and pull them onto the pole, stopping at the middle of the masking tape.  You don’t want any paint to leak past the tape, so use a clothespin to secure each bag and keep it out of your way.
8. Follow the directions on your spray paint can to get it ready.
9. Prop the pole up or just hold one end up with a hand.
10. Put the sandwich bag on the hand you’ll be spraying with!!  You could also use a rubber glove or bigger plastic bag.  Trust me, if you don’t use something, you’ll end up looking like you have chickenpox or something weird going on with your hand for several days.  I learned this the hard way after doing my first poles in red!
11. Apply second coat after around 10 minutes (or whatever your directions say), if you want.
12. Allow it to dry, then move the bags to the next stripe to be painted!

    

–Lauren Greaves

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Miniature Horses as Pets

Miniatures are great as pets/companion animals. They’re smaller than “big” horses so they can be kept in the back yard just as you’d keep a dog or cat, and are lower maintenance than other breeds of horses. They take up less space, eat less, make less of a mess. In some cities where the zoning is more liberal like Austin, Texas, USA, they can even be kept in the back yard. Plus they don’t require shoes like many other breeds. They can be handled by children (I started showing when I was 3), or by the elderly (one of our customers bought a mini for his mother’s 96th birthday). Any age will do.

For people who are intimidated by big horses or had an accident with them in the past, or simply don’t have the energy for them anymore, miniatures are the perfect alternative. They’ll allow one to still be able to enjoy the beauty of the horse.

Showing Miniature Horses

At miniature horse shows you can do anything you do with a big horse except for ride. That might sound like a joke at first, like there’s nothing left if you take riding away, but boy would you be wrong. The two major associations for miniature horses, the American Miniature Horse Assciation (AMHA), and the American Miniature Horse Registry (AMHR) and their clubs offer lots of classes. A few are: halter, color, liberty, showmanship, jumper, hunter, obstacle, driving obstacle, and costume classes to youth, amateur and open exhibitors at local, regional, and world level shows.

One of the closest things you can do to riding is drive miniature horses. They’re quite strong and can pull a cart with two people without problem. Any miniature horse can be trained to drive; though they ideally training begins at three years of age.

Miniature Horses as Therapy Animals

Many have probably heard about miniatures being used as therapy animals. The seeing-eye-miniature horse idea got some publicity for a while there. However, our favorite use of them therapy-wise is done by Hearts and Hooves. Hearts and Hooves is a non-profit organization that takes miniatures to hospitals, nursing homes, and many other places to provide emotional healing. It was founded by one of our customers, who purchased her first mini from us and found his companionship to be very healing during cancer treatment. From there she decided to pay it forward and founded the group and began using them to help others heal. Therapy works particularly well with miniatures because they’re small enough that they can easily go into buildings. This helps them visit people who can’t easily make it out to a ranch to be with full sized horses.

Mini Horses as Investments

Finally, miniatures, like many other animals, can be used as investments, with values that range from a few hundred to a hundred thousand dollars or more. Successful breeding programs and horses that produce quality foals will up the value of your miniature horse. While the American Miniature Horse is a relatively young breed, there’s still a rich history behind it and the stallions that founded and have progressed the breed during its first 40 years. These bloodlines add value! Some notable names to look for in your mini horse’s bloodline are Boone’s Little Buckeroo, Orion Light Van’t Huttenest, First Knight’s Billy Idol and SMO Bolero de Suerte.

Also, developing a winning history in the show ring can increase a miniature’s value. The highest titles awarded at the American Miniature Horse Association’s World Championship Show each year are the “World Grand Champion” titles. These are given for halter stallions, geldings, and mares at both junior and senior levels, and for each of the driving divisions.

What can you do with a mini horse: Lots of things!

What can you do with a mini horse? Keep them as pets, show them, use them as therapy animals, or an investment. Do you do something different with your mini? Let us know!

Little America Miniature Horses is one of the the United States’ largest miniature horse breeding operations, with over 150 miniature for sale. Our herd features bloodlines from notable stallions in the industry, as well as World Grand Champions and progeny of World Grand Champions. Find your next miniature, or first miniature by looking at the horse section of our site today! Then come back and tell us your answer to: “what can you do with a mini horse?”

–Lauren Greaves

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